A Brief History of Downtown Albuquerque: 1952 to 2019
Posted on March 29, 2019 @ www.PeteDinelli.com (reprinted here with permission)
I was born in 1952 at Presbyterian Hospital and raised in Albuquerque.
According to the 1950 Census, the city’s population was 97,000 people and in 2018 the city proper had an estimated population of 558,000.
To read this article in perspective:
I attended St. Mary’s grade school downtown (1st grade to 8th), Cleveland Junior High (Louisiana, NE) and graduated from Del Norte High School (Montgomery, Ave and San Mateo) in 1970.
Around 1960, the Paul and Rose Dinelli family of five moved from a home on Lomas and 3rd Street to a Mossman Gladden home on San Pedro south of Menaul.
When I was old enough, I took a city bus everyday from a bus stop at San Pedro and Candelaria NE, then traveling south on San Mateo and then West on Central all the way downtown to attend St. Mary’s grade school and then back after school.
This is what I remember when it comes to the Albuquerque I grew up in, went to school, worked in, raised a family and what the city has become today.
GEOGRAPHIC AREA OF DOWNTOWN DEFINED
The historical soul of Albuquerque will always be “Old Town” Plaza Albuquerque founded in 1706 with its narrow streets and century-old adobe houses, the historic Francis De Neiri Church and the Old Town Plaza Gazebo.
From approximately 1952 to about 1965, Downtown Albuquerque on Central from Broadway to Rio Grande, including Old Town, was considered the “hub of activity” for retail and business where you would shop, bank and go for entertainment and the area of major tourist activity.
Central Avenue going West from Broadway Ave to the Rio Grande River is traditionally thought of as “Downtown” by many born and raised in Albuquerque or long-term residents.
Downtown Albuquerque should probably also be considered to include a mile north and a mile south of Central between Broadway and the Rio Grande river so as to include Old Town, the Albuquerque Museum, the Children’s Science Museum, the New Mexico History Museum, the Zoo, the BioPak, which includes the botanical gardens and aquarium, and various government buildings including courthouses and commercial office buildings.
GHOSTS OF “DOWNTOWN ALBUQUERQUE”
From 1952 to 1965, downtown Central with all its retail commercial stores, banks, utility office buildings and theaters was the beating financial heart of the city and in its heyday.
There were many retail stores that existed on Central Street downtown and side streets and included:
Leeds Shoe Store, Mindlin’s Jewelry, Mandell Dreyfus, the Court Cafe and Bakery, Kistler Collister, Sears & Roebuck, the old Hilton, Liberty Cafe, St. John’s Cathedral, Gambel’s, The Men’s Hat Shop, Skip Maisel’s Indian Jewelry and Crafts Trading, Tandy’s Leather, Levine’s, JC Penney, Montgomery Ward’s, Fedway Department Store, Paris Shoe Store, Hale Shoe Store, Stromberg’s Clothing, American Furniture, People’s Flowers, Russell Stover’s candies, Mccullens, Tandy’s Leather, The Magic Shop, Kurt’s Camera Coral, Krees’s, Woolworth’s, Payless Drugs, Zales Jewelry, Skaggs, Fogg’s Fine Jewelry, PNM (across from the KIMO) the Sunshine, KIMO, State and the El Rey movie theaters, and First National Bank, Franchini’s Deli and Magnison’s Deli and the YMCA to mention a few. The Alvarado Hotel was located at 1st and Central and the pueblo style 7 story Franciscan Hotel was at 6th and Central.
The demolition of the Franciscan Hotel and the Alvarado Hotel and restaurant signaled the beginning demise of the downtown area to what it is today.
What also contributed to the demise of Downtown was the closure of the old “Albuquerque High School”, dubbed “Bulldog City” named after the school’s mascot, located and Central and Broadway, and the school was moved to its current location at Indian School and the freeway.
For decades, the old Albuquerque High School on Central remained vacant and deteriorating until the school buildings were eventually purchased and developed into high end condos.
THE ALVARADO HOTEL
The Alvarado Hotel had a tremendous historical significance to the city.
Albuquerque’s first train station was a small railroad depot on the site of the current Alvarado Transportation Center at First and Central in the 1880’s.
With increasing demand for a larger facility, the Alvarado Hotel, a Mission Revival-style building which served as one of the many Harvey Houses along the train route, was constructed on the site in the year 1902.
“Harvey Girl’s” were trained at the Alvarado with dormitory facilities provided to young woman in need of work.
Santa Fe Railroad architect Charles Whittlesey designed the building, and Mary Colter designed the interior of the hotel.
The hotel was named for “Hernando de Alvarado” of the 1540 Francisco Vásquez de Coronado Expedition.
Just south of the hotel a train station was constructed, also in the Mission Revival style, with a large, distinctive tower.
In 1902, the Alvarado Hotel, also a Mission Revival-style building which served as one of the many Harvey Houses along the train route, was constructed at 1st and Central.
The Alvarado Hotel was renowned for its luxury and food dining, but by the mid-20th century, with the decline in railroad travel in the United States, the hotel fell on hard times and was demolished in 1970.
The Alvarado Hotel was demolished in 1970 and the site remained a dirt parking lot for many years and the City eventually purchased the property.
The current Albuquerque Transportation Center (ATC) complex was constructed in the 2000s to resemble the façade of the Alvarado.
The first phase of the ATC project was completed in 2002 to serve ABQ Ride and the second phase was completed in 2006.
THE FRANCISCAN HOTEL
Franciscan Hotel was located at Central Avenue and Sixth Street, northwest corner and had 150 guest rooms, of which 50 were equipped with a private bathroom facilities.
The hotel was six stories, plus a basement and a penthouse for a total of 7 stories
The Franciscan hotel opened on December 15, 1923, closed in October, 1970, and was demolished in May, June and July, 1972.
The Franciscan Hotel was a hotel designed in the style called “Pueblo Revival” .
The main lobby had the distinctive “vegas” of the pueblo style revival.
The land that the Franciscan Hotel was located has been a vacant parking lot since its demolition in 1970.
DOWNTOWN TRANSFORMS
Around 1960, from San Pedro going east and north east was basically vacant land that was developed over the subsequent years with many homes built by Mossman Gladden Homes and Dale Bellamah Homes.
The original Albuquerque Convention Center was built in the late 1960’s as was the old 5 story Frank Horan City Hall building and the 4 story downtown main police station were built and still stand on property that was condemned in the name of “urban renewal”.
To the north of the original convention center was built the “Hilton Double Tree” hotel, 201 Marquette, NW, built in 1975, to serve the convention center and the “semi-circular” architecture portion of the hotel was supposedly inspired by “hot air” balloons and originally painted in various colors.
During urban renewal, many residential areas downtown were demolished and replaced by office buildings and it had an impact on retail businesses along Central Downtown.
The 14-floor building known today as the New Mexico Bank and Trust Building, 3701 4Th Street, NW was opened in 1960.
The 13 story Dennis Chavez federal office building at 500 Gold, SW opened in 1965.
Both the 18 floor Compass bank building, 505 Marquette, NW and 12 story PNM office building, 414 Silver, SW, were built in the mid 1960’s and both opened in 1966.
The 6 story First Plaza building, 200 3rd St, NW, was completed in 1972 and was the corporate headquarters of First National Bank owned by the Maloof Family.
The 16 story Wells Fargo Building at 200 Lomas, NW opened in 1973.
The 10-story Bank of the West and Davita Medical building complex at 303 Roma, NW with parking structure across from the Wells Fargo Bank on Lomas also opened in 1973.
The 8 floor, city owned, Plaza Del Sol, 600 2nd, was opened in 1975 and was originally a bank building.
The 8 floor AT&T building at 111 3rd NW, was built in 1978.
The 8th floor “Plaza Campana” 400 Tijeras the houses Molina Health care was built in 1981 and has gone under significant renovations over the years.
Locally owned banks such as First National Bank, owned by the George G. Maloof family and Albuquerque National Bank started to establish branch banking before the banks were bought by bigger national banks.
It was not until the early 1980’s that the City-County Government Center, 11 story building located at 1 Civic Plaza west of the plaza and located between the Frank Horan City Hall building and the old District Courthouse was erected.
Urban renewal in the 1960s and 1970’s gutted or demolished many historic and government buildings in downtown Albuquerque.
The distinctly dome designed Albuquerque Civic Auditorium east of the old St. Joseph’s Hospital opened in 1957 and was demolished in 1987 and a city own entertainment venue never replaced it.
At one time, the Greater Albuquerque Chamber of Commerce offices were located at the Albuquerque Civic Auditorium.
Two businesses that have survived for decades on Central downtown have been the “The Men’s Hat Shop” and “Skip Mazel’s Indian Jewelry and Crafts Trading”.
Skip Mazel’s Indian Jewelry and Crafts Trading announced in February, 2019 that it was closing its doors.
STEADY DEMISE OF “DOWNTOWN” AS ALBUQUERQUE “GROWS” EASTWARD
Around 1960, from San Pedro going east and north east was basically vacant land that was developed over the subsequent years with many homes built by Mossman Gladden Homes and Dale Bellamah Homes.
After urban renewal of the 1960s and 1970s, Albuquerque’s population growth continued to the North East Heights with Coronado Shopping Center and WINROCK eventually replacing the Downton retail shopping area of the city.
Many of the national downtown retail stores such as Sears, JC Penny’s and Montgomery Wards relocating to the malls’ following the residential development.
It was with the building of the major retail shopping malls in the 1960s and when the city growth and population began spreading to the East and North East when the downtown area very slowly began to wither and die.
WINROCK mall was opened March, 1961, Coronado Shopping Center was opened March, 1965 and both were “open malls” and two of the very first malls ever opened in the United States.
Both WINROCK and Coronado have expanded and transformed repeatedly various times from open malls to closed indoor malls.
The UPTOWN Commons Shopping area opened in 2006.
CORONADO SHOPPING CENTER
Coronado Shopping Center was the first major mall constructed in Albuquerque.
Homart Development Company was the developer and it was the mall-building subsidiary for SEARS.
Originally, in 1965 Coronado was an open air shopping center with the major anchor stores of Sears and Rhodes Department Stores
Other stores in 1965 at Coronado included Dorothy-Gray’s Dress and Beaty Shop, Fashion Fabric Center, Henry’s Fine’s Menswear, Mandels Woman’s Apparel, the Sewing Nook, Swiss Colony Chease House, Unique Boutique, Car-Lin Casuals, Lynn’s Apparel Shop, Richman Brother Men’s Wear, Sweetbriar Ladies Wear Shop, Judd’s Jewelers and Bank of New Mexico.
Wyatts Cafeteria and VIP’s Big Boy were also located at Coronado Center at one time.
At the center of the Coronado open air mall was a fountain with the sculpture entitled “Coronado’s March” consisting of a line of soldiers, horses and pack animals.
The sculpture was re located to the South West entrance of Coronado Mall where the food court is located when the mall was expanded and enclosed.
In 1974, Rhodes Brothers was re-branded as Liberty House.
In the mall’s 1975-1976 expansion, Goldwater’s and The Broadway anchor stores were added, and in 1984 a fifth anchor store Sanger-Harris was added.
In the late 1970s, Liberty House closed and was replaced by Mervyn’s Department Store.
Goldwater’s Department store closed in 1986, but later reopened as May D&F in 1989.
Sanger-Harris was re-branded as Foley’s in 1987 and in 1988 Foley’s closed.
In 1990, JC Penney opened at the former Sanger-Harris/Foley’s store area.
May D&F was re-branded as Foley’s in 1993, signifying Foley’s return to the mall.
The Broadway was re-branded as Macy’s in 1996.
In 2006, Foley’s was re-branded as Macy’s, and Macy’s vacated the former The Broadway store area, which has now been taken over by Gordmans upstairs and Dick’s Sporting Goods downstairs.
In 2008, Mervin’s closed all stores due to bankruptcy and the store area was remodeled for Kohl’s, which opened in 2010
In 2019, Coronado mall is the largest in the state of New Mexico with 150 stores and is anchored by Macy’s, JC Penney, Kohl’s, and Dick’s Sporting Goods
“WINROCK SAYS IT All”
Winthrop Rockefeller was an American politician and philanthropist and real estate developer, who served as the first Republican governor of Arkansas and he was a third-generation member of the Rockefeller family, one of the richest family’s in America.
WINROCK was named after Winthrop Rockefeller who developed the property and its original slogan was “Winrock Says It ALL”.
When WINROCK first opened as an “open mall”, Diamond Jim’s Restaurant was directly South of the entrance of the mall before you actually went into the mall.
Some of the original stores in the original WINROCK open mall included Toys by Roy, Montgomery Wards, Record Rendezvous, JC Penny, Jordans, Paris Shoe Store, Hallmark, and Pastians Bakery.
Directly to the South and on mall property was the White WINROCK Hotel.
A branch of First National Bank was in the North area end outside WINROCK mall with a Safeway Grocery store and a Value House Jewelry Store.
Where the Romano’s Restaurant Grill now located directly west of WINROCK on Louisiana was “Lieter’s Chevron” gas station.
WINROCK basically closed down for years with only the Dillard’s Men’s and Women’s locations and is now going through yet another transformation.
Today, WINROCK is going through yet another major redevelopment with new stores on the parameter including Dillard’ Men’s and Woman’s Stores, Pets Mart, TJ Max, Northsrom Rack, David’s Bridle Store, DSW Shoes, Famous Footwear, Matress Firm, Men’s Wearhouse, and ULTA Beaty Cosmetics
The entire interior of WINROCK and all the store fronts have been gutted to make way for a road down the center lined with stores, restaurants, entertainment and housing or apartment living.
An underground parking lot has also been constructed.
A Regal 16-screen IMAX and RPX Theatre has been constructed on the East of the property.
Chuze Fitness Center replaced “Toys R Us” on the WINROCK property when the toy store chain went out of business in 2018.
Restaurants on the WINROCK now include Red Robbin, Suace Pizza and Wine, BJ Brew House, Burger 21, Dave and Busters, FireHouse Subs, Gardunios of Mexico, Genghis Grill.
UPTOWN COMMONS
The “Uptown” Commons stores complex located at Indian School and Louisiana was opened in 2006 and was built on the original site of St. Pius High School.
The “Uptown” Commons has become a vibrant retail shopping area with 51 store front and high end retail specialty stores and restaurants.
A few of the stores in “Uptown Commons” include Banna Republic, Chico’s, Coldwater Creek, Eddie Bauer, Jos. A Banks, Michael Kors, Pottery Barn and Williams Sonoma.
Restaurants at the Uptown Commons include BRAVO, the Elephant Bar and California Pizza.
A Trader Joe’s is also located on the Uptown Commons property.
THE COURTHOUSE DISTRICT CREATED
It was in 1998 that the “Court House” District began to be developed in Downtown Albuquerque.
in 1998, the 7 story, $41 million United States Federal Courthouse located at 333 Lomas Blvd. NW across the street from the Metropolitan Court was completed and dedicated.
During the last 60 plus years, there have been 3 physical locations for the Bernalillo County District Attorney’s Office: the 2nd Judicial District Courthouse, “Union Station” and the Steve Schiff District Attorney Building.
Over the last 60 years, the Bernalillo County District Attorney office has grown from a small office of one elected District Attorney and 10 appointed Assistant District Attorneys to an office that employs 319 full time personnel consisting of 118 full time attorneys, and numerous paralegals, secretaries, investigators, and victim advocates.
For many years, and for many District Attorneys, the Bernalillo County District Attorney’s Office was located on the second floor of the old 2nd Judicial District Courthouse downtown at 5th Street and Marquette, NW.
The historic Union Station building located off of Central and the rail road tracks in downtown Albuquerque housed the District Attorney’s office for about 10 years, with the county remodeling and repairing it over those years.
The old courthouse at Tijeras and 5th still stands today and it is often used for TV and film productions, including “Breaking Bad” and “Better Call Saul” for courtroom scenes.
As both the 2nd Judicial District Court and the District Attorney’s Office grew over the years, it was necessary for the county to move both the District Attorney’s Office and the District Court to their own separate buildings.
In June, 2001, the Bernalillo county Courthouse located at 400 Lomas and the adjacent Bernalillo county District Attorney Office were dedicated.
The building of the courthouse and the District Attorney’s Office were both part of the same project costing $55.9 million dollars to construct both buildings.
An emphasis was placed on aesthetics for both the new courthouse and the district attorney office to include public art, including sculptures and paintings.
Outside and in front of the entrance of the District Attorney’s office is a commissioned sculpture of an adult “American eagle” in a nest with chicks to symbolize the nurturing of justice.
The outside bronze piece is a commissioned work of art by well-known New Mexico sculptor Sonny Rivera.
In January, 2004, the nine story Bernalillo County Metropolitan Court house, with a construction cost of $83 million, and located on the northwest corner of 4th Street and Lomas Boulevard was dedicated.
ATTEMPTS TO REVITALIZE DOWNTOWN
In the early to mid-1980’s, the City Council attempted to revitalize Downtown as a place to go with the multi-million dollar “Festival Market Place”.
The Festival Market place was intended to be a large entertainment venue where civic plaza now sits and nearby areas.
“Concerned Citizens” of Albuquerque mounted a voter initiative to put it on the ballot that killed the festival market place.
After the demise of the Festival Market Place at the polls, the City Council exerted itself even further with Downtown revitalization by pushing the expansion of the Albuquerque Convention Center with the major addition of an east wing and a parking structure.
The 21 story Hyatte Regency and 22 story Albuquerque Plaza complex, which opened in 1990, were built in part with city bonding to coincide with the convention center expansion.
From 1985 to 1989, the Albuquerque City Council continued with efforts to try to revitalize in part Downtown Albuquerque.
In 1987, the City Council enacted the 10-year quarter cent “Quality of Life” tax which included funding for a Performing Arts Center, the Children’s Science Museum, the Botanical Gardens, the Albuquerque Aquarium and the Balloon Museum and the acquisition of critical open space in the Sandia foothills.
The Children’s Science Museum, the Botanical Gardens, the Albuquerque Aquarium and the Balloon Museum were all constructed.
The performing arts center was originally proposed to be built at a cost of $60 million and was to be built on the city vacant land located directly north of Civic Plaza in an effort to revitalize downtown.
Another voter petition drive initiative was undertaken that forced a vote on the proposed performing arts center and voters said no to the project.
From 1990 to 1994, downtown revitalization took the form of trying to build a new baseball stadium in the area of Broadway and Lomas to again revitalize the area and bring people to downtown.
Relocating the baseball stadium failed and the old baseball park for the “Dukes” baseball team was leveled and rebuilt calling it a “remodeling” and the stadium was renamed “Isotopes Park” after the city was able to lure another professional baseball team.
The Bio Park, with the Rio Grande Zoo, aquarium and botanical gardens, is the number one tourist attraction in the State of New Mexico.
During the 2015 municipal election, Albuquerque voters approved with an overwhelming majority the voter petition drive initiative to increase the gross receipts tax for the Bio Park.
There are at least $40 million dollars in upgrades and exhibits planned for the Bio Park facilities and without making those repairs, the city risks losing many national certifications.
ART BUS PROJECT
A major impact on the historical character of Route 66 Central was the construction of the ART Bus Project.
In 2015, ground was broken for the Albuquerque Rapid Transit (ART) bus project at a cost of $130 million dollars with the use of a federal grants and revenue bonds to finance.
The ART Bus project is a 10 mile stretch of old “Route 66” along Central from the Westside Coors Road through the downtown area up to Louisiana Street, NE.
The ART project was constructed and designed to go directly down the center of Central with “bus stop” platforms constructed in the center of Central.
The construction of the bus route eliminated the median improvements made in the ten mile stretch.
Downtown dodge a major bullet when the ART Bus route was diverted from Central going west starting at First Street up side streets to 10th Street and back on Central at Old Town with no ART Bus platforms constructed from First Street to Rio Grande Blvd.
Although the ART Bus lanes and platforms were completed in 2018, delivery of 22 new buses for the bus route has yet to happen.
A DOWNTOWN IDENTITY CRISIS
“Downtown Albuquerque” has become the government and financial district for the city with the location of city hall, the City/County Government Center, the Metro Court, State District Court, the Federal Courts, the Social Security Administration, the main bank branches of Wells Fargo, Bank of America, Bank of the West Compass Bank and other banks and government agencies.
The center of Albuquerque and the new “downtown” is the Uptown Area of the city consisting of Coronado Shopping Center, the many shops at the Commons at Uptown, and the WINROCK development.
The WINROCK development will include even more retail shops and even luxury housing when it’s done not to mention all the restaurants that have popped up in the area with even more planned including commercial office space in the area.
Downtown Albuquerque is clearly part of the sole of the city, as is Old Town, because of the history it represents.
There has been a very large number of multi-story apartments and condos developed directly south of Central between 1st Street and 6th Street within the past 10 years along with the Silver Street “grocery store” in one of the developments.
The residential developments are Downtown’s biggest hope yet for Downtown revitalization because it will sustain vibrant downtown activity, where people can live, raise a family and work and play which is the “walkable city” concept.
The Albuquerque High School condos and the Lobo Rainforest Building and Innovate Albuquerque development across the street at Broadway and Central will no doubt help with Downtown revitalization.
The “One Central” development located at 1st Street and Central, which is now opened, is a public-private mixed-use development, including at least 39,000 square feet of commercial space with an entertainment tenant initially described as an upscale bowling alley with at least two other retail or restaurant tenants, 60 residential units and a 429-space parking garage.
PROSPECT OF RETURNING TO OLD GLORY DAYS
There has been a very large number of multi-story apartments and condos developed directly south of Central between 1st Street and 6th Street within the past 10 years along with the Silver Street “grocery store” in one of the developments.
The Albuquerque High School condos and the Lobo Rainforest Building and Innovate Albuquerque development across the street at Broadway and Central will no doubt help with Downtown revitalization.
The “One Central” development located at 1st Street and Central, is a public-private mixed-use development, including at least 39,000 square feet of commercial space with an entertainment tenant initially described as an upscale bowling alley with at least two other retail or restaurant tenants, 60 residential units and a 429-space parking garage.
The historic and vacant Albuquerque Rail Yards are within one mile of the Downtown area located south of Downtown between the Barelas and South Broadway neighborhoods.
Albuquerque Rail Yards has 18 buildings still standing erected between 1915 and 1925 and include four major maintenance facilities built by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway.
The city has upgraded one building at the rail yards, the blacksmith shop, where the Rail Yards Market Place has taken place on weekends each summer since 2014.
In order to create a major tourist attraction, the city is planning remediation efforts and to activate a second building at the Albuquerque Rail Yards.
Activating a second building will accommodate additional vendors and potentially be a big tourist draw.
The residential developments are Downtown’s biggest hope yet for Downtown revitalization because it will sustain vibrant downtown activity, where people can live, raise a family and work and play which is the “walk-able city” concept.
Downtown Albuquerque slowly but surely is beginning to see a return to its heyday of 70 years ago, but it is doubtful it will ever reach the same quaint pinnacle it was from 1952 to 1965.
Time does indeed march on even for cities as does a city’s vibrant commercial and retail area.
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